I came to Izmir to see Ephesus. And I did see Ephesus. And it was completely wonderful. I made the mistake of taking a guided tour… so I couldn’t stop to draw anything, or even really stand in wonder at what I was experiencing, but that’s ok.
Izmir was perhaps less wonderful. I don’t know if it was just that I was starting to get worn down by the particular aspect of Turkish culture comprised of the most entrepreneurial–and pushy–of world renowned capitalists. (No thank you I am not interested in your carpet). But I will just say this: If you are going to the third largest city in a country that spans two continents, and it does not have any hostels, and is one of the most “politically active” cities in the country, you might be well advised to go see something else. Now, there are nice things, but you really have to look. I did run across a cool old Roman forum (finders keepers), and some really wonderful stone work. But at this point I was just content to sit in a park by the sea, and draw a “broken down piece of shit pier”.